Power Tools for Amateurs: What Newbie Woodworkers Need to Know Before Purchasing Woodwork Machines
Finally, you have decided to build the deck chair you promised your grandmother for her seventy something birthday. So months before the occasion, you had your workshop ready, your protective gear set in place, your materials were already handpicked but unfortunately you haven’t shopped for the woodwork machineries you will be needing to start your first ever wood project. Now, you realized you definitely have to buy them, but what do you need to buy?
Going to a hardware store with your credit card without knowing what you really need to buy may lead you to a disaster. Although it may seem easy to load and load your cart with power tools, the task of choosing from a variety of woodwork machines available in the market can be intimidating and to some extent may also be disheartening especially for amateurs who just want to pursue a hobby or for those who just want to exercise their knack for carpentry. By looking at the cost, purchasing power tools that may not be suited for first-timers can pierce holes in their wallets and buying something beyond the must haves might end up storing cold rarely used carpentry machineries comfortably in the basement.
So here are some notes about some woodwork machineries that a new woodworker needs to know before purchasing his own set of power tools.
Sanders. There are several types of sanders available out there but it is recommendable to have one that can be effective in polishing large surface areas and another for polishing the hard to reach corners such as a finishing sander.
Finishing sanders come in block sanders and random orbit. Both tools are used as a finishing sander but each excels in different applications. A random orbit sander is better used for polishing large areas efficiently. Meanwhile, a block sander furnishes a better finish while also having the advantage of being able to reach into corners.
One advantage of using a block sander over a random orbit is its compatibility to standard sandpaper since the latter needs specific circular sheets which can make the running cost higher. So if you are on a budget, a block/finishing sander is more practical. Although it may take longer to get a good finish, the end result will be far better.
Saws. Before purchasing a saw, you must consider not only its cost but more importantly its versatility. One that possesses great versatility is the bayonet saw or jigsaw. Owning one is like having a band saw, a scroll saw and, to a limited extent, a circular saw. This power tool really needs to be considered when buying your first ever saw.
To maximize this great tool to your advantage, the bayonet saw can be fixed upside down onto a bench. So instead of usually pushing the saw over the wood, you can push the wood over the bayonet saw just like you would when using a band saw.
The major limitations that this very versatile saw have are its inability to cut in a straight line and to cut anything thicker than about 1 1/2".
Drills. When buying a drill, it’s a battle between cordless or corded drill. It’s a matter of choosing according to what most woodwork projects you think you probably venture into. While the appealing advantage of a cordless drill is its portability, they are not well suited to masonry work. This cannot be intended for non-wood drilling. This is because a cordless’ drill bit does not revolve as fast and its battery quickly drains if used to drill into brick. But cordless drills are still enough for occasional masonry work.
When you are considering buying a cordless drill think about the longevity of its battery and also how long it takes to recharge it. Check if it has speed control and whether it has reversible functions, allowing you to remove screws as you can fasten them.
Router. There are two distinct types of router. One is the plunge router and the other is fixed also known as the standard router. Both types can provide the equal results, although each type is appropriate for particular jobs. But if you have limited budget for a router, it is recommendable to buy a fixed router. Not only does it provide a more accurate cut for depth, it is especially useful when the routed area begins in the middle of the wood rather than at the edge. You can also attach your fixed router to a router table whereas a plunge router cannot.
These are some of the woodwork machineries that you need to consider when you want to fill your workshop with power tools. Although it’s not expected to have them all at once, at least you are now familiar with what to look for what you really need.
Anatomical Structure of Woodwork Joints
Who said that joints are strictly medical? Surprisingly, they also exist in a carpenter's glossary too. In fact, woodwork joints have outnumbered the three types of joints found in humans namely the diarthroses, amphiarthroses and synarthroses. But don’t worry because we won’t be dealing with these medical terms. Let us direct our attention on how we can build stable, stylish, and sturdy woodwork by familiarizing ourselves with the different types of woodwork joints.
Depending on the type of woodworking project you may have in mind, the following will help you decide on what appropriate woodwork joint to use. With the advent of new tools and machineries, traditional joints have evolved in various types. These woodwork joints differ in styles but have the ultimate purpose of making a strong and stable woodwork.
1. Square Butt Joint. Simply known as the butt joint, it is the most basic joint in joining two pieces of timber relying solely on glue to stick it together. The advantage of this is its being quick and easy to make. It is very useful in making boxes and picture frames. However, since the end of the timber where glue is applied is porous which absorbs most of the glue, it becomes difficult to hold the timber together. On the other hand, this can be strengthened by using screws or pins as support.
2. Mitre or Miter Joint. This is a joint created by sawing one end of two parts to be joined at an angle of 45° to form a 90o angle corner. This is more often used in making picture frames than butt joints. Although this popular method of joining is cheap, it requires accurate cutting to achieve its best strength and visual appeal.
3. Dado Joint. Also known as the housed joint, this type of joint is most popularly used in making bookcases, shelves, and drawers . Unlike butt joints, this joint does not need the benefit of any glue or screw to hold it in place. To make a dado joint, a cut in one piece of wood receives the end of the other. It is much stronger than the butt joint and has a more professional appeal.
4. Dowel Joint. To make a dowel joint, drill aligning holes in each piece of wood then by using glue attach the dowels in place for a tight joint. To achieve high accuracy, it requires a dowelling jig and bits. Use a jig and a drill press to obtain straight holes with uniform depth.
5. Mortise-and-Tenon Joint. This joint is used to join two members perpendicularly. A rectangular projection from the end of one piece called the tenon fits snugly into the mortise cut in the second piece. This strong and traditional joint can be made even stronger by adding a peg. This is commonly used in antique furniture building.
6. Tongue-and-Groove Joint. Also known as the finger joint, this joint allows for wood shrinkage, it's great for floors and paneling. Long tapered tongues or fingers that interlock join two pieces of timber lengthwise. A high powered router is used to cut a groove in the edge of one piece and a tongue on the other to fit into the groove.
7. Through-Dovetail Joint. This is one of the most stylish joints available, but also one that requires additional patience and more accuracy to cut. The interlocking cut of the wood makes it really strong plus gives more visual interest. This type of joint is used in the manufacture of superior furniture.
8. Lap Joint. This is made by laying one piece on top of another. This can be used either in an angle or lengthwise joint. Lap joints can be made manually with a saw and chisel, on a table saw or radial arm saw with a dado blade, or with a router and a straight bit. Meanwhile, there is a variation of a lap joint which is the half lap joint. This is when half of the thickness from each piece is removed. To make a half lap joint, several cuts half the depth of the material is made while the excess is removed with a chisel.
Now that you know most of the different types of woodwork joints and you can now determine which is best suited for your next woodwork project, there is no reason why you shouldn’t start working on it.
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